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【强烈推荐!】好文章大搜罗!(不断更新)
日期:2009-05-14 | 分类:All about Photography |
10 Ways to Take Stunning Portraits
http://digital-photography-school.com/10-ways-to-take-stunning-portraits
10 More Tips for Stunning Portrait Photography
http://digital-photography-school.com/tips-portrait-photography
Environmental Portraits
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【强烈推荐】摄影网站Links (不断更新)
日期:2009-04-25 | 分类:All about Photography |
http://digital-photography-school.com/
【理由】有非常多的国外摄影小技巧和经验,包括前期拍摄和后期修饰,写得也非常有意思,强烈推荐!!


【理由】从一个6G多的视频开始关注这个网站,后来又在多本外国摄影教材里被提到。这个网站里主要介绍的使用闪光灯的技巧,同时也有很多DIY的帖子,著名的纸箱做柔光箱的教程就是这里的:)

http://www.prophotolife.com/category/technical/ 技术频道
http://www.prophotolife.com/video-library/ 各种摄影技巧的视频教程(可惜是YOUTUBE的,实在想看的同学们请去下载HOTSPOT SHIELD)
【理由】这是一个拥有自己工作室的摄影师的网站,里面的视频教程都是很实用,也很基础的教程,且教学风格也十分基础,基本是手把手教。不像SCOTT KELBY或者WEB PHOTO SHCOOL那样需要注册收费,这里的视频教程都是免费的,不过也许那些收费网站的教程更加专业吧:)

http://www.studiolighting.net/
【理由】该站点的特色栏目是 “Studio Lighting on the Cheap” ,提供了一些省钱又有专业味道的思路。
45个优秀的 PHOTOSHOP 教程网站
http://www.5umagazine.com/design/graphic-design/282.html
【理由】拍摄很重要,后期也不可缺少。尤其是当你想玩点创意时候,PHOTOSHOP技术肯定是你必须的。这45个网站里汇集了各种从基础到超级大牛的后期教程。而更重要的是你可以从这些网站中链接到更多优秀的相关网站,就看你有没有这个能力抗住了。
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【构图COMPOSITION】6X6,正方形的3种构图技巧——转自LEICA中文站
日期:2009-05-13 | 分类:All about Photography |
当4:3和3:2画幅渐渐让人们厌倦的时候,正方形构图开始显示出其独特的魅力,你既可以如Peter Marlow那样买一台Mamiya或者Rollei 2.8F,也可以试着重新裁剪你的老片,看看有没有可以在正方形构图上焕发新生的旧作,下面是一些正方形构图的小Tips,也许可以在你的拍摄或裁剪过程中提供一些帮助。
1.对称的画面
正方形构图最为适合拍摄对称的场景,特别是拍摄主体在画面的中心的时候,正方形构图显得简洁而平衡,相比之下,3:2或其他矩形画幅拍摄相同的场景会显得过于呆板。
2.黄金分割和三分法则
在非对称场景下,我们常见的黄金分割以及三分法则同样适用于正方形构图,不过,你往往需要综合考虑到横纵两个方向的构图比例
3.使用画面中的框架
当你裁剪照片时,很多在3:2画幅下非主体的对称框架其实可以非常简单地转换为正方形构图,尤其在这种框架不够“广”的情况下,转化成正方形构图,往往能够有效地突出框架中的主体



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【DIY】DIY专业人像级柔光箱!—— 附图纸
日期:2009-04-27 | 分类:All about Photography |
I used laminated foamcore for the box structure. The inside walls are laminated white which gives off a really smooth bounce.
The four sides were taped together with clear packing tape which is holding very well. I taped every seam from the inside and the outside. Some suggest hot glue, but that seems like it would take too long. Black duct tape would have been great as well.
The trickiest part was the back. I had to think up a way to attach it to my speedring (I did already have a speedring for my X-Small Photoflex Silverdome softbox). The speedring has the typical holes drilled for softboxes to connect. I simply cut the back hole out in the pattern of a tic-tac-toe board and folded the tabs up. Next, I used the shafts of two ball point pens to connect the box to the speedring.
Here are photos of the box and the connection (the stop sign on the back is something that was printed on the board I used - haha).





I've added the baffle for diffusion, I decided to use elastic instead of velcro because it was cheaper. I simply cut a rectangle slightly larger than the outer box opening and sewed elastic around the edge. The baffle slips over the opening easily. I haven't noticed any hotspots yet - if I do, I will add an inner baffle.


For a more professional look, I spray painted the whole box black on the outside.
Here are a couple of photos taken using this box:

Source: StudioLighting.net | March 1st, 2005 | |
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【教程】人像摄影——7种棚内人像用光
日期:2009-04-25 | 分类:All about Photography |
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【教程】人像摄影——单反光板户外打造电影场景灯光
日期:2009-04-21 | 分类:All about Photography |



Anyone who's ever been on a movie set is sure to have a sense of just how involved the lighting set-ups can be.
Because production teams need to be able to create their own lighting set-ups so as not to be at the mercy of the weather or direction of the sun, shooting for film is very involved, expensive, and takes up a lot of time.
On most sets, huge, generator-powered lights are used to simulate sunlight, while other large-scale light diffusers and reflectors are used to control the quality of the light that illuminates the subject or scene.
And even though this level of production may seem overwhelming to you, keep in mind that light is light, and that the techniques used in expensive movie sets can also be applied to photographers working on a much smaller scale to achieve the same effects. This lesson demonstrates some basic methods for working with, and modifying, a very beautiful (and free) source of light: the sun.(Most images can be clicked for an enlarged view.)Topics Covered:
- Scouting the right location
- Front-lighting vs. backlighting
- Lighting for head shots
- Lighting for full-length shots
Equipment Used:
Camera/Media
- Olympus E-1
- Olympus ZUIKO DIGITAL 14-54mm F2.8-3.5 Lens
- Olympus 1GB CompactFlash card
Lighting Equipment
- Photoflex LiteDisc Holder
- Photoflex LitePanel 39x72" Fabric White/Soft Gold
- Photoflex LitePanel Kit
- Photoflex Litestand 2212
- Photoflex Litestand 2218
- Photoflex MultiDisc Kit
I was recently in Boston visiting some friends and wanted to take some outside portraits of my friend, our model, in the north end of the city. As we were scouting a place to shoot, we noticed a small side street lined with old, tall buildings (where the afternoon sun was about to shine in). So we decided to quickly set up some lighting gear to take advantage of this momentary lighting opportunity.
HEAD AND SHOULDERS PORTRAIT
First, we decided to start with a head and shoulders portrait and considered a couple of lighting options. We could have had our model facing the sun and then used the Translucent section of a Photoflex MultiDisc to diffuse the sunlight falling on her, but instead we decided to have her backlit against the sunlight pouring onto the street. I also wanted the sunlight to create an outline, or "rim-light", around our model to create separation from the background.
Since our model's face would be in shadows in this position, I attached a Photoflex 32" MultiDisc to a LiteDisc Holder and 2212 LiteStand and positioned it so that the white side of the reflector would bounce sunlight into the top half of her body (figures 1 & 2).
When the MultiDisc was positioned where we wanted it, I grabbed my Olympus E-1 digital camera and made the following adjustments to the settings:- Exposure mode to Manual
- Focusing mode to MF
- ISO to its lowest setting (100)
- Resolution to TIFF
- White Balance to Daylight (5500 K)
Since I wanted a short depth of field, I set the aperture to f/3.5 and the shutter speed to 1/500th of a second to compensate for exposure (here, I figure out the appropriate shutter speed by reviewing the exposure on the LCD. Typically, I will first set our aperture to determine our depth of field, and then use the built-in meter to estimate the approximate shutter speed. I'll then take a shot and review the exposure. After a while, you get familiar with how the light levels on the LCD compare to the light levels on your computer screen, and become more confident with your exposures, minimizing the need to bracket (shooting at several exposure levels) or use a light meter.
Once the camera was set, I framed up the shot and fired off a few frames. Here is a keeper from the bunch (figure 3).
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
The result shows a very dynamic portrait. The sun lights up our model's hair and shoulder to create separation from the background, and the MultiDisc does well to bounce white, soft light into the top half of our model's body: a good exposure all around. Also note that the sun rakes along the wall of the building, giving it dimension and an interesting texture.
While the white side of the MultiDisc is good for bouncing soft light into the shadows, it is also neutral in tone.Sometimes it's nice to use the Soft Gold side to warm up the skin tones somewhat, and that's what we decided to do here next. To do so, I simply flipped the fabric on the MutliDisc, reattached it to the LiteDisc Holder, checked the reflection on our model's face and took a few more exposures (figures 4, 5 & 6).
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Notice how the Soft Gold side of the MultiDisc really warms up the color of our model's skin. And because the Soft Gold side is shinier than the White side, it adds a little more contrast, or "punch" to the shot. It almost looks as if our model is being lit by both the sun and a nearby window reflecting sunlight into her face.
FULL-LENGTH PORTRAIT
Next, I wanted to shoot a full-length portrait of our model, but knew that the 32" MultiDisc would only be able to light a section of the model's body, leaving the rest in shadow. In order to light a person evenly from head to toe, you need to use a reflector that is at least as tall as the person you are photographing.
In this situation, the Photoflex LitePanel Kit is the right tool for the job. It uses the same fabrics the MultiDiscs use, only it reflects 3 feet by 6 feet. First, we set up the LitePanel Frame. I then attached a White/Soft Gold Fabric to it, attached two Photoflex Main & T Clamps onto two Photoflex 2218 LiteStands and mounted the sides of the LitePanel frame to the Clamps. Once the Frame was supported by the LiteStands, I angled the frame slightly downward to optimize the reflection and then tightened down the Main & T Clamps to prevent the Frame from rotating.Once everything was in position, we asked our model for a few different poses and fired off a few more shots (figures 7, 8 & 9).
Figure 7
Figure 8
Figure 9
The result shows a bright, even light that fills in the shadows from head to toe. Even the black pants are illuminated enough to reveal texture and detail. As you can see, the White LitePanel fabric helps to create natural-looking lighting without appearing as though the scene is artificially lit.
Next, I decided to flip the LitePanel to reflect the Soft Gold side of the fabric. Again, the Soft Gold side is both brighter and warmer in tone than the White side, and gives us a different look to the shot. Once the LitePanel was in place, we took a few more exposures at the same camera settings (figures 10, 11 & 12).
Figure 10
Figure 11
Figure 12
Notice the difference the Soft Gold panel makes. The result shows a very dramatic light that ties in well with the contrast of the building in the background. A very cinematic shot lit only by the sun and a reflector!
Figure 13
As the sun made its way across the sky, I decided to reposition the camera angle so that the building across the street would be in the background. While we waited for the light to rake across the brick, I had our model put on her sunglasses and a scarf for a slightly different look. With the same camera settings and the Soft Gold panel in place, I took a few more shots. Here is our model's favorite of the bunch (figure 13).
Again, a well-lit, dimensional subject in front of a nicely textured background. It just goes to show that you don't have to spend a fortune to get professional-quality results!
COMPARISONS
Here you can see the progression of these result shots.
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Keep in mind that there is no "right" way to light someone, and that there are many different looks you can achieve simply by experimenting with your lighting tools. And by experimenting often, you will inevitably learn how to get the look you are going for.
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【转载】拍汽车 德日美摄影师风格各异
日期:2009-04-21 | 分类:All about Photography |
如果有人告诉你他是一个知名的汽车摄影师,那至少可以肯定,他不是很有“才”,就是很有“财”!商业摄影圈里是个人都知道:拍车,重要的CASE动辄几十万上百万,那可不是一般人能干的活。汽车摄影师,作为商业摄影师群体中一个重要分支,其作品的好坏,不仅仅是看摄影师本身的技术与经验,还要看摄影师的综合指导能力,团队配合能力、现场调度能力和预算分配能力。优秀的汽车摄影师的培养和风格,与当地汽车工业发达的程度和汽车制造哲学高度一致。
德国、美国与日本是全球汽车工业高度最发达的三个汽车生产大国,我们不妨来看看这三个国家的汽车摄影师养成之路。

德国:把车当美女来拍
德国的汽车摄影作品,总是让人把第一目光放到被拍摄的汽车本身,德国汽车摄影师的拍摄风格与德国人的造车哲学如出一辙:精细,厚重,一丝不苟,发挥稳定……不由让人感慨:确实没有辱没“最懂车的民族”这一头衔。
尽管如此,你可别以为德国的汽车摄影师拍起车来很刻板,就如德国人造车一样,他们的工作照样充满着激情与试验性,如果有幸在拍摄现场参观一下德国摄影师的工作过程,你明显发现他们虽然严谨,却充满热情,简直是把车当美女来拍!
不得不承认,世界知名的大牌汽车摄影师,一半以上出自德国,因为德国的汽车厂商与摄影师的合作最为紧密。一辆新车,几乎从第一辆样车开始,受厂商信任的摄影师就开始介入,等到正式下线,新车的每个细节摄影师都了然与胸,如此长的时间,给摄影师提供了充分的时间去思考和试验,最后拍出来的车,当然与众不同。
那么,优秀的汽车摄影师在德国为什么如此高产呢?
首先,德国人现实和理性得可怕,如果一个人没有一定的天赋,也没有一定的技术学习能力,他一定不会进入汽车摄影这个行业。其次,在德国,摄影教育目的非常明确,针对不同的学员要求,有不同的摄影学校,大致可分为艺术类摄影学院和应用类摄影学院两类;艺术类摄影学院就不多说了,而应用类摄影学院就是为了培养商业摄影师,在那里,学生学到的不仅是实用的摄影技巧和行业规范,学校还要培养学生的业务规划能力,商业谈判能力,客户沟通能力和团队整合能力,顺利拿到学位的学生基础都非常好。
而且,德国商业摄影界等级分明,典型的金字塔结构,所有新晋摄影师都必须阶梯性成长,按部就班慢慢来。刚从摄影学校毕业的学生想成为自由职业摄影师,在最开始的几年中,即使不世出的超级天才也含难接到活。因为几乎不会有大客户会把工作交给年轻摄影师来完成。所以,年轻摄影师会有两种选择,一种是先在一个成熟的摄影工作室当助理,磨练自己的摄影技术并丰富实践经验,在几年之后,再独立成为自由摄影师;另一种是成为职业摄影助理,要知道:在德国,大牌的职业摄影助理,收入与大牌的摄影师差距可不像中国那么大。
没错,发现了吧?其实别看德国出产了这么多优秀的汽车摄影师,他们都是踏踏实实地拍出来的,德国人不会因为你拍了一套好东西就把你捧上天,想当大师?那你就得时常让人叹服才成!

日本:工作中“哈依”不断
比起作品水准,日本的汽车摄影师无疑要差德国和美国甚远,号称已经欧美化了的日本汽车品牌NISSAN,现在已经很少找日本的本土摄影师合作,基本上由欧美摄影师包办了大部分主力车型的拍摄。
是日本人缺乏创造性人才吗?实际上日本也有不少优秀的摄影人才,无论是艺术领域或者商业领域,但最终这些大师或者准大师都跑到纽约、伦敦和巴黎去发展了,有些就此安家落户,也有些在欧美闯荡出名堂后,再转战回到日本,走一条曲线救国的道路。以上这些应归结于日本的本土商业摄影环境,实在是太沉闷了,日本商业摄影师的发展道路,实在是太艰辛了。众所周知,日本人的集体生活意识,就是“不能让他人失望”,日本的造车哲学,是以“他人需要”为指导思想,所以如果作为一个汽车摄影师,成长在日本是很不幸的,工作以“完全满足客户”为本,工作的指导思想是:客户永远是对的;如此,在拍摄现场,你看到那些摄影师对着客户不断点头说着“哈依”也就不足为奇了。
日本的商业摄影界到现在还存在着某种程度上的师徒制,一个刚毕业的学生,即使你在学校再优秀,再有想法,刚出道都要老老实实跟个师傅,在他们的意识里,所谓学校只帮你完成了最基本的素质教育,工作的技巧,工作的态度,都需要跟随资深的师傅好好磨练,如果师傅不认可,原则上你是不能独立作业的。直到有一天,师傅向他的同行和客户们宣称:某某君一直都很努力,现在已经合格了,独立的商业摄影师之路才算见到一丝曙光。
就算一个摄影师能够独立工作了,他往往还要受到“前辈”、“客户”、“评论家”等诸多人等的指指点点,一件作品,受到的影响多了后,自然就缺少了震撼人心的力量。这就是为什么日本的汽车摄影师的作品,非常惟美、又做工精良、看起来虽然没什么缺点,但总让人感觉力度不够的原因。
这样的环境,很多有志青年自然无法忍受,曲线救国的人越来越多。日本人崇欧媚美,在时装和文艺界都有“以欧美包围日本”的成功案例,脑子灵活的人,自然选择先去欧美搏个功成名就再回日本当大师的正确道路,只不过,欧美已经集中了全球有潜力的有为青年,竞争只会更为激烈,出头依旧是长路漫漫!
美国:拍摄水平不错,吹牛水平更不错
比起德国的汽车摄影师,在美国成长起来的同行完全是另一个腔调。美国虽然是汽车生产大国,人们对车的依赖也比其他国家高,但美国人的汽车文化不在于制造和生产,而是在于享受汽车,在他们看来,汽车是人类的机械宠物,美国人不会把汽车当成艺术品来看待,在他们眼里,汽车的存在就是为了让开车的人爽,甭管什么,人,才是第一位的。
基本上美国人不会跟你吹嘘:哪部名车是美国人设计和生产的,一般他们的自豪是这样表达的:哦,中国也有这么多人开BMW X5?这可是BMW专门为了美国市场设计的!没办法!美国人就是觉得:美国的东西牛不牛两说,美国的人绝对世界第一牛!
在美国的商业摄影环境成长起来的摄影师也都这副脾气,“相信我,我是最好的汽车摄影师之一,什么?某某某?那是个只会拍货车的家伙!”总之,美国的汽车摄影师们充满了自信,他们的自信足以让你相信:这世上没有他们拍不了的活,只要预算够大!
虽然美国摄影师确实喜欢吹牛,但他们有骄傲的本钱。地域足够宽广,路况足够复杂,景色的类型也足够多,加上美国人传统的自由主义,让美国民众对汽车相关视觉的焦点并不放在汽车的静态展示片上,而是集中在汽车外景片上;这样的欣赏口味造就了美国汽车摄影师拍公路片与野外片的超高水准。一个优秀的美国汽车摄影师,在接到一个适合他发挥的委托后,如果在预算与时间方面给予充分的支持,往往他都不会让客户失望。
美国的摄影师成长道路,比起德国来,那可是太多元了,有正规商业摄影院校毕业的,有曾是玩艺术摄影后来转型的,还有很多广告公司的美术指导,嫌其他摄影师不够好自己亲自拍,结果拍着就拍成职业摄影师的,还有少数压根没摸过相机的,突然想干这行就干上了的。
在美国,不管你以前是阿猫阿狗,只要有人愿意为你的工作付钱,你的作品又对得起人家付的钱,那你就算是个职业的商业摄影师了,当然,如果你不能维持你的作品水准,或者一个劲吃老本没有进步,那你的职业生涯也算走到头了,美国人非常商业,不管你之前多么大师,如果你连续弄砸俩活,以后就再也没人找上门。
美国的摄影教育导向与欧洲颇有差别,美国人的教育方式基本都是一个套路:先告诉你规则和标准,然后鼓励你打破老规则,创造新标准。所以,在美国成长起来的汽车摄影师,创造性思维都不成问题,但在技术方面,比起在德国成长的摄影师那可是有一定的差距。--------------------------------------------转载分界线------------------------------------------------
由于曾经在专业汽车摄影棚工作,有幸认识以上各国摄影师,在工作接触中个人偏好德国汽车摄影师,对他们严谨的工作态度非常敬佩。美国摄影师则多有创意的拍摄方法,也值得学习。日本摄影师的超强工作强度令人生畏。
以此转载纪念曾经在棚里度过的美好时光。
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【DIY】 03 三款DIY 静物摄影台
日期:2009-04-21 | 分类:All about Photography |
方法一:台灯+塑料管框架
用到的东西很简单,就是装修布线用的塑料管和家里的台灯,当然还有纸。
在框架上蒙上白布用来柔光,这就可以拍摄了!
用这种方式拍摄的作品方法二:宝丽板+钢丝
用钢丝或者木条等搭建一个框架,用宝丽板做台面
由于宝丽板是半透明的,这种方式可以方便得打背景光
拍摄透明物体效果好方法三:废纸箱掏空
作为最常用的包装材料,很多家庭都经常有一些废纸箱,可以把它们利用起来。
把四壁掏空,利用其框架
贴上白纸
另一种纸箱柔光棚
灯光用闪光灯,并用了半透明的宝丽板或描图纸或背景纸
特别说一句,最后这种方法是 Strobist 特别推荐的。这种纸制柔光摄影台不仅可以作为摄影台用,还可以作为单独闪光灯的柔光箱用。 -
【Lighting】“伊斯特伍德”式用光
日期:2009-04-17 | 分类:All about Photography |
“伊斯特伍德”式用光也是一种效果强烈的例光照明技术,由于这种用光最初见于美国西部电影明星克林特·伊斯特伍德的照片,因而得名。其独特的照明方式能把这位明星面部和下领那种不同凡人的富有阳刚之美的层次表现得淋漓尽致,以突出他那剽悍的牛仔形象,因而又被称作表现男子汉气概的照明方式。 “伊斯特伍德”式用光并不复杂,只用两盏基 本灯和一个简单的背景,既可以在摄影室里使用, 也可以在其他许多场合下使用。由于其简单易行 而且效果显著,被广泛用于拍摄一些较为严肃的 肖像或一些商业性肖像。运用这种照明技术可以 从各种角度突出男士脸部最美的部分。
具体布光 如下:

主灯(A)’ : 置于略高于被摄者头部的位置,以 使在额头下鄂一侧边缘造成强烈的亮光。这盏 灯还会以其强烈的照明将被摄者身躯的这一侧同 背景区分开来。
正面放一盏加柔聚光灯(B): 放置 在相机的左侧,基本上对着脸部强光照明的一侧, 其大部分光线通过带支架的反光板变成反射光。 但是,须注意反射光不能过量,否则会削弱例光的强烈效果。
置于被摄者左侧的一块白色长柱形反光板将充分地为脸部阴影一侧补光。整个背景用的是一块反光铝板,目的是提供适当的灰色调。
具体拍摄过程如下: 先把主灯A放在被摄者身后稍远的位置,但要对着其身体一侧,从而使强光从额头到下领照亮其面部的一侧,并且延伸到面部宽度的四分之一,达到嘴角的位置。然后在正面放置加柔聚光灯(B),其位置要既能增加侧光照明的效果,又能刚好为脸部的另一侧提供充分的补光。补光只需显出细部就够了,不要形成亮光区域。安放带支架的反光板,必要时可请被摄者配合以适当的角度把住反光板以打出反射光。这种布光的难度是要使双眼都能得到同样的光亮,尽管脸部两侧的照明是不均匀的。反光板起着平衡双眼亮度的作用,并增加肖像的立体感。在作为侧光用的主灯(A)前面要放置挡光板,这样就不会在镜头中产生光晕。最后进行测光并检查背景。 在拍摄时可对被摄者进行姿势和动作方面的指导。例如要求被摄者咬紧牙关以显示他刚毅的神态,或要求他转动身体以利用强烈的侧光照明拍摄侧面、四分之三面部和正面肖像。
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【DIY】02 章鱼灯架
日期:2009-04-15 | 分类:All about Photography |
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【DIY】 01 锅碗瓢盆物尽其用 改装便携环型闪灯
日期:2009-04-15 | 分类:All about Photography |
·锅碗瓢盆物尽其用 改装便携环型闪灯
制作环闪的方法有很多种,今天我们来试试用一套保鲜盒改装环闪。
首先在最小的那个碗下面打孔,直径与螺纹管相仿。
将螺纹管前端加工后粘贴到小碗底部。
将最大的那个碗底下掏出同样大小的洞。
将大碗小碗拧到一起。
为了增强反光,我们用锡箔纸包裹两个碗。
在下面的碗旁边,开一个适合闪灯灯头的孔,便于闪灯安放。
就这样把螺纹管后面钉死在碗上。
在大碗的方孔处安装一个闪灯接口。
把闪灯插进去。
试试效果,不错吧?!
【搜刮来源】蜂鸟-玩转器材 http://academy.fengniao.com/more/2_970.shtml
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我为什么会做那么多梦。
日期:2009-03-16 | 分类:All about Photography |
我想有个安静的地方,不用说话,不用见人,只要安静地生活,照料我喜爱的人即可。
我想有个明亮的地方,有大大的落地窗和阳光可以洒满的阳台,我可以摆上一张小桌子,拍很多温暖的小片子。
如果有这么一个人,能满足我所有对幸福的要求,给我无忧无虑的生活,让我做我喜欢的事情,让我在我喜欢的时候和他打闹,不喜欢的时候就可以不说话,如此便是好的。不需要无微不至的关怀,不需要日日思念的热爱,不需要时时担心的呵护,只需要他给我一个自由无负担的生活。
这样的人,我相信我找到了。
但这样的生活,我却不知道最终能否属于我。
我很害怕。
一直在害怕。































